It has been a long time coming but luxury fashion has finally given Hip-Hop its just due. Gucci recently showed their 2018 Spring Summer collection which included a woman’s coat that bore a striking resemblance to the work of legendary tailor Dapper Dan, and Black Twitter was not pleased.
Fur lined with giant balloon monogrammed sleeves, the Gucci bomber jacket caused quite a stir online when fashion enthusiasts and Hip-Hop historians alike screamed cultural appropriation. So much so that the owner of the original coat, Olympic gold medalist Diane Dixon, voiced her displeasure with the swagger jacking.
“Bish” stole my look! Give credit to @dapperdanharlem He did it FIRST in 1989! #gucci #GucciRipOff Now they get it! Long time overdue! @iamaprilwalker @tammyfordagency #DesignerWars #louisvuitton #LouisVuittonMinkJacket #dianedixonolympian @usmarothonmann @677flycreative @pam_boy @spaceodditykelly @i_am_audrey_ #dapperdanharlem @tom.prior @balleralert @fameolousent_
Gucci eventually took to their Instagram account to give Dapper Dan his long overdue credit.
Inside the #GucciCruise18 collection by #AlessandroMichele, a look that celebrates an iconic style of hip-hop fashion culture from the 80s—a plush jacket featuring puffy sleeves monogrammed in GG motif. Legendary tailor Dapper Dan @dapperdanharlem influenced the trend by making such custom pieces for his rapper and athlete clients out of logos from famous fashion houses, including #Gucci. In a homage to Dapper Dan, this jacket worn with jeans and a lurex headpiece is flanked with a striped knit with cross-stitch embroidery, cotton shorts and a georgette gown with trompe l’oeil details.
The luxury fashion house also released a formal statement further detailing the Harlem influence in the upcoming collection:
“Gucci’s ‘new Renaissance’ cruise 2018 fashion show included references to periods of revitalization spanning many different eras, in particular the European Renaissance, the ’70s and the ’80s. The collection also saw a continuation of Alessandro Michele’s exploration of faux-real culture with a series of pieces playing on the Gucci logo and monogram, including a puff-sleeved bomber jacket from the 1980s in an homage to the work of the renowned Harlem tailor Daniel ‘Dapper Dan’ Day and in celebration of the culture of that era in Harlem.”
A spokesperson for Gucci told The New York Times they reached out to Dapper Dan in hopes of collaborating on a new project; Dan nor his team has yet to respond.
In the 1980’s Dapper Dan created some of Hip-Hop’s most classic designs when he crafted bespoke pieces for rappers, athletes that bore the likeness of Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Fendi. Naturally these brands, whose product were not readily available nor marketed to inner city customers, felt in a way thus sending lawyers equipped with cease and desist orders looking for Dan.
Eventually, the Harlem boutique was shut down. Dan’s story is briefly covered in the Freshed Dressed documentary.
While Gucci calls it paying homage, we spot a very well styled jig. Sound off in the comments section below.
Photo: The Legendary Diane Dixon’s Instagram, with respect.